Ma Vie en Franglais
 
The other day I went for a quick run in the 18ième arrondissement, and I couldn't help but snap a few shots of what I passed along the way.

(Not great for my workout, but a total bonus for my blog.)

I know the pics are a bit random, but I just felt they show that even on a cloudy day, running through the streets of Montmartre, there is so much beauty to be found in this city.
 
 
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Paris vs. New York
As I once mentioned in my debut Ma Vie en Franglais post, I inherited a compulsive need to travel to France like, far more than humanely necessary.

Like many do with cigarettes, chocolate, or an ex-boyfriend, I just can't seem to stay away.

So in an effort to remain consistent with this shameful reputation I've developed over the years, here I am once again preparing to spend the summer drinking wine along the seine, eating way too many carbs and rolling my eyes as Parisians and tourists alike fail to adhere to the basic laws of spacial relations.

After spending a challenging but incredibly rewarding year working in New York City, I ultimately decided to return to Paris for the summer to finally complete my masters degree at the American University of Paris.

Living my 26th year of life in New York was an eye opening and, dare I say, enlightening experience. I learned that the subway isn't actually as confusing as it initially appears (which is not to say that it always works/makes sense.) I discovered that as much as I love the creative, global and celebrity-whore side of the fashion industry, it's not a career path I want to devote my life to.

I realized that while scenery, culture and food are clearly the key characteristics that lead to loving or hating any city, my experience is ultimately shaped by the people I encounter, both in the strangers (literally) I run into on the street, or in the close friends I've known for a decade.

And, most importantly, I learned that Williamsburg really is the hipster epicenter of the universe. Its reputation is not at all exaggerated. That stereotype is basically on point.  (That being said, I love it and I don't plan on moving anytime soon.)
 
As much as I adore Paris, I developed a deep appreciation and bond with New York City over this past year - one that I was certainly not anticipating. So as hard as it will be to say goodbye (again) to the City of Lights at the end of July, I plan to return to my tiny yet quaint two-bedroom apartment in Williamsburg, and spend another year exploring this crowded, filthy and amazing city. And I plan to enjoy every minute of it.*


* Or at least every 42.5 minutes ... a true New Yorker would never be that consistently happy. Gross.
 
 
When I initially arrived in Paris last fall, I was expecting to stay for at least 15 months.

That all changed when I was offered a full-time job...

...in New York City.
So my glamorous life as a graduate student living in Paris has been cut short, to begin work with a company that I have long followed and admired.

As excited as I am to embark on this new adventure, tackle a new city, and be closer to my friends and family living on the East Coast, my departure is bittersweet. I have lived in France several other times, but this time has certainly been the longest, and I finally felt like a true "adult" making my way around this phenomenal city.

Despite the things that drive all us expats crazy (the crowds, the tourists, the rudeness, the dog feces, etc), I think we can all admit that there is still something magical about Paris - there is really no other place like it.

I will miss the croissants, the markets, the macarons, the cobble-stone covered side streets, the wine, the three hour-long lunches, the French sense of humor, the strikes...I will miss it all.
Aside from missing the city, I will of course also miss the fabulous friends I've made during my time abroad. I feel as though I now have family in so many corners of the world, from New Orleans to San Francisco to London to Kenya (all of whom are welcome to crash on my couch in my future tiny, over-priced apartment in New York!)

Although my time in Paris has been cut short, I have so many wonderful memories from the past eight months that I know will stay with me as I attempt to adjust to the crazy Manhattan lifestyle.

I still plan to keep up Ma Vie en Franglais, although I do apologize if there is a limited number of posts in the next month or so as I get settled back in the states.

I truly believe that hints of French culture can be found in any city around the world, and New York is no exception. The focus of the blog will clearly have to be adjusted, as I will no longer have Paris as a backdrop, but I am convinced my "vie en franglais" will follow me wherever I go.

I hope you all will continue reading, and join me on this exciting new adventure!

Bisous,

Carolyn
 
 
OK, so I have had this song stuck in my head since April 1st, and just had to share it.

In honor of this insanely gorgeous weather we've been having over the past few days (and if weather.com does not deceive me, our good luck should last at least through the weekend!) I wanted to share this famous tune with those of you who have never heard it, as well as those of you who love this old classic as much as I do.

This video is kinda random, just some photos from someones trip to Paris. But it has my favorite version of the song "April in Paris" by the lovely Ella Fitzgerald, and then eases into Frank Sinatra's smooth rendition of "I Love Paris."

Enjoy!
 
 
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Père Lachaise Cemetery
I always found it a bit odd that a cemetery could become such a popular tourist destination. But then again, leave it to the Parisians to make something like death completely chic.

So chic in fact, that model Kate Moss announced this week that she intends to purchase "his and her" burial plots with boyfriend Jamie Hince in Père Lachaise cemetery, the largest cemetery in central Paris that dates back all the way to the early 1800s. 

Located in the 20th arrondissement, the cemetery spans over 118 acres, has over 70,000 funeral monuments and hosts over 300,000 dead bodies (a bit morbid, I know).

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Oscar Wilde's Tomb
But this isn't just your usual resting place for the dead -- Père Lachaise has become the V.I.P. room for the deceased.

Here is a quick list of some of the famous musicians, novelists, composers and artists buried in Père Lachaise:
(it has become somewhat of a tradition to kiss the tomb of Oscar Wilde  while wearing lipstick -- see my photos below and it will make more sense!)

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Map of Père Lachaise
If you plan to visit, make sure to allow for plenty of time to get lost and wander around (I would say between one and two hours). Most of the famous graves are tucked away and hard to find  -- Morrison's and Piaf's in particular are well hidden.

To help navigate the cemetery, you can purchase a map outside the front entrances for about a euro.

Or, if you're crafty (and cheap) like I was, just snap a photo of the main map (located at all entrances to the cemetery) and refer back to that along your way.

Below are some additional photos that I took last week as I wandered through Père Lachaise.

I also came across this blog called Dead Famous, which has lovely photos from the cemetery, and can offer additional insight into those well-known artists who made Père Lachaise their final resting place.

 
 
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I often wish I was adventurous enough to really get outside my comfort zone and move to a country that is essentially the polar opposite of the United States. I feel extremely fortunate to have traveled as much as I have at a relatively young age, but I have very rarely ventured outside the European Union.  That being said, I think it can be easy to underestimate the differences between the U.S. and our European allies. Even though France is obviously much more similar to the U.S. than say, Zimbabwe, everyone is bound to experience some level of culture shock.

So I wanted to post a few points of advice to any American hoping to move to or vacation in Paris. Most of these "words of wisdom" may seem obvious: but it honestly took me until my fourth time of moving to France to fully develop a (mostly) Zen approach to living abroad. Below is a list of five key pieces of advice that I wish I had heard before moving to Paris the first time back in 2005. This post offers more general advice, with some logistical recommendations as well as some guidance on how to adjust your outlook. Next week I will offer more concrete specific advice, on banking, purchasing cell phones, etc. But I hope that the below information can help any OCD, type-A American survive (and possibly even enjoy themselves) in this European epicenter of wine, cheese, socialized medicine and strikes. Bienvenue a Paris!

1. Patientez s'il vous plait. France is well known for many things. Efficiency is not one of them. But frankly, if you were really seeking out someplace that functioned as efficiently as the U.S., wouldn't you just move to Germany? It may seem obvious, but the French way of doing things, whether it's obtaining a visa or buying groceries, is very different than what we're used to in the states. Most places of business close for an hour or two during lunch. Most people generally stop working at 5pm. If you are moving to France, and planning to set up a life here, it will generally take you two to four weeks to settle all logistical issues. That being said...

2. Remember la joie de vivre! You're living in the country that is known around the world for having the best versions of nearly all things delicious in life: wine, bread, cheese, chocolate, pastries, art, music, fashion and 35 hour work weeks. Who cares if you don't have internet in your apartment within 24 hours (or three weeks) of moving?? So what if you need to visit the cell phone store provider five times before fully understanding that you need two forms of ID, proof of housing, a bank card, and that weird "RIB" thing everyone keeps talking about. Go purchase some delectable macarons from Pierre Hermes  (more on them later!) and eat them in front of St. Sulpice. Or go buy a two euro bottle of wine and some out-of-this world cheese at any local market, and picnic on the Canal St. Martin with a group of friends. All logistics will fall into place soon enough. 

3. Parlez-vous français? If you're American, you probably don't. And that's OK (as long as you are conversational in at least one other major international language, naturally.) But at least TRY to learn some basic survival words before arriving. Parisiens often get a bad reputation for being rude. And plenty of them are. But I've met just as many rude people in New York and Washington D.C. Most people in the Parisien service industry are used to Americans, or other English-speaking natives, walking into a restaurant, bar or store, and automatically speaking to the staff in English. I guarentee you, even a small attempt at a "Bonjour" or "Merci" or "Désolez, je ne parle pas français!" can go a long way. You'll actually find that a lot of French people enjoy practicing their English, and don't mind speaking it. It's the Anglo-Saxon arrogance that really gets their goat.

4. Gardez vos sous. Like pretty much any major city worth visiting, Paris is expensive. C'est evident. But there are some easy ways to save your money:
  • Food: As tempting as it is to stop by the closest épicerie (translation: mini grocery store), which are everywhere and tend to display their produce outside for all to see, you will save a lot of dough, and get better quality produce, meat, fish, cheese, etc., at your local market (see below for additional details on this wonderful French tradition). 
  • Transport: This is not New York City, so don't take cabs unless absolutely necessary. The metro is an efficient and relatively cheap way to get around the city. If you are under 26 and/or plan to live in Paris for an extended period of time, buy a carte imaginaire and you can pay about 32 euros a month for unlimited metro use. Or if biking is more your thing, take advantage of the Velib' program.
  • Booze: Who doesn't love a country where wine is cheaper than soda and bottled water? Instead of shelling out 10 -12 euros on a watered down mixed drink or a pint, go to your closest Monoprix and buy a bottle of wine for anywhere from two to four euros. And yes, it's still delicious. You can also get a decent bottle of champagne (OK probably not technically from the region of Champagne, but delicious nonetheless) for about five euros. If you're really craving beer, it's best to buy it at a local super market (again, avoid épiceries where they jack up the prices) as opposed to out at a bar.
  • Cafe: Everyone must experience the French pastime of sitting outside one of the city's many cafes and sipping a coffee while judging all the tourists and locals that pass by. But instead of paying close to five euros for a Cafe Creme (aka a latte), get a regular espresso ("cafe") or a noisette, which is basically coffee with milk. Also, DO NOT go to Starbucks unless it's an absolute emergency. They're slowly becoming more and more popular in Paris, but come on guys -- did you really fly over 3,000 miles to get a non-fat, sugar-free hazelnut latte? Please.
5. Market to Market. I think one of the best parts about Paris is that it manages to maintain some of its older cultural traditions even in the 21st century. Possibly one of my favorite French traditions is that of the outdoor market. Every arrondissement in Paris has a semi-weekly outdoor market. It's basically like an outdoor Whole Foods, but cheaper and with less yuppies. At these markets you will find higher-quality, less expensive and local produce, meat, fish, cheese, and other delectable goodies. It's jut amazing. Check out this helpful website that breaks down the schedules and locations of all major traditional and specialty markets in Paris.

I hope this is helpful to anyone planning a trip (or a complete life change) to Paris. More useful information to come!
 
 
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Photo by Carolyn Englar
Hello everyone. My name is Carolyn. And I'm a French-a-holic. 

"Hi Carolyn."

But really, it's not my fault. I had no choice. Who is to blame for this terrible affliction one might ask? Well, my mother, of course. She was the one who dragged me to my French Immersion Elementary school starting at the tender age of five and forced me to visit crazy places like Belle Ile and Umbria (ok that was in Italy, but still) with her Parisien friends she had known for over 35 years. It was basically decided well before my birth that I, like my mother, would be physically, mentally and spiritually connected (or addicted, whichever) to la France. 

I am 25 years old, and I have been to France at least nine times. I calculated that I was in France, whether it was for eight months, or one week, every year from 2004 and 2010. I feel more comfortable making my way around Paris than I do in any American city (except for perhaps Washington D.C., ma ville de naissance). 

So naturally, after spending two years back in Washington (following my stint as an Assistante de Langue in Montpellier for eight months in 2007-2008), I got the itch to return to France. Again. So here I am, moving back to France for the fourth time in my quasi-young life, to do what everyone else is doing in this economy: go back to school.

And that brings me here, to "Ma Vie En Franglais." The purpose of this blog is multifaceted: it's an outlet for me to post anything Parisien related that might interest other Americans, students, tourists, or even the French themselves. I also intend to comment on the differences and similarities (yes, they do exist) between French and American culture. Our nation's history with France is complex, as is our current political relationship. Whether it is a commentary on the news of the day, or just a simple observation that may jump to my mind while jogging in les Jardins de Luxembourg , I hope that readers will find this blog to be insightful, informative, and hopefully a bit entertaining.

I leave you all with a clip of the original "American in Paris" -- while my current life isn't quite as colorful as that of Gene Kelly's in this classic film, I currently have no complaints. Enjoy, and bienvenue a Ma Vie En Franglais!